Basic Knowledge When raising rabbits
Summer: It is the hardest season to keep the rabbits cool, and stop them from dying from heat stroke.
- Cooling: Most rabbit cannot handle the heat, especially if over 85 degrees. If you have a larger rabbit they have the most trouble with heat, because of their larger size. Also long haired rabbits, and older (3 1/2 +) rabbits have difficulties during the summer heat, and most likely will be affected if left directly in the sunlight, will die with one hour to a few hours.
- Shade: If you are setting up a rabbit barn, under trees is the best place, some rabbit breeders cover their barns with growing vines. Make sure the vines don't attract insects. Vegetables vines are great to use, stay away from honeysuckle vines, they are a major attraction to insects. Also remember that rabbits are susceptible to poisoning from insecticides.
- Fans: When placing fans make sure to not place a fan directly on the rabbit, this could cause a lot of medical problems, such as sniffles, colds, and upper respiratory infections, that could become deadly to your rabbit and other animals. Place the fans on the ground or on an upper area to help circulate the air, especially if you place the fans around openings in your barn, or housing area.
- Misters: As long as they are not directly on the rabbits, if they are, this could give immediate medical problems such as sniffles, colds, and upper respiratory infections, which could lead to death if not taken care and handled properly. These are used greatly for breeders who have their rabbits and other animals outside, when put in the shade, and they help greatly with reduces the surrounding temperatures. You can hang them high around the rabbit area, or get the ground ones used for dogs, and place a shade netting and have the mister soak it and it makes the area a lot cooler.
- Ice-bottles: These are great, I have been using them for over ten years, they are fun for the rabbits and keep them cool. Why waste the soda bottle you just finish or the Gatorade bottle you just drank. I would take the wrapper off, but rinse it out, fill it up with water and put in the freezer, easy way to keep your rabbit cool. My rabbits enjoy pushing them around, its a great entertainment! Just a warning if you have a Californian, Dwarf Hotot, Blanc De' Hotot, Himalayan or a white rabbit, be warned may get smut, but if you want to keep them cool, who cares about smut.
Winter: Rabbits can tolerate cooler weather a lot better than heat. Keep the rabbits out of the weather. If you get snow, some breeders use wooden boards around the rabbits cage, helps keep the warmth in, works great when you have kits (baby rabbits). If you have extreme cold weather, keep your rabbits off the ground, and consider doubling your insulation in your building/barn. I use hay to help insulate the cage, and rabbits love eating the stuff. Try to stay away from Oat Hay, can cause bloating.
Types of Feeds: This is something highly important, and most talked about among breeders. Pellet feed is a must have for developing rabbits. This is their main feed, this is where they get everything they need in order to be healthy, and maintain healthy. They require a minimum of 3500 IC of Vitamin, this is the primary vitamin rabbits require. Guinea pigs require 3500 IC of Vitamin C, that is what they require, this is needed on a daily basis. The more the merrier on their main vitamins. Protein levels is almost very important, a rabbits needs a minimum of 16% protein in their pellet feed, this helps to ensure they aren't skinny, underweight, in the wild many people are unaware that rabbits would actually eat leftover carcasses laying around. They are indeed Omnivores. I feed 16% on a daily basis, Angora breeds require a higher protein diet because of their long wool, needing to maintain that thickness. They are required to have 17 - 18% on a daily basis.
Feeds that I have looked at and have tried are: Always double check! They can change what they have in the nutrients monthly or yearly. Always periodically check!
Templeton: I am currently using this, and have seen a remarkable improvement to my stock, they gain weight faster, and fill out nicer as well. Has 16% protein, and 4000 IC of Vitamin A.
Kings Feed: I have had problems with this feed, have seen in moldy once in awhile, others have switched from this to Kings recently. Has %16 protein, and 3000 IC of Vitamin A.
Purina Rabbit Chow: I have not tried this, its not in my area. Many breeders told me it does wonders to their rabbits coats, and does well with the Netherland Dwarfs, Mini Rex, and Holland Lops. Does have %16 protein and 4000 IC of Vitamin A.
Country Acres: This is supplied by Tractor Supply, I have tried it, works the same as Templeton, didn't lose any rabbits, but my rabbits did not like to eat this as much as the Templeton, has a large pellet, in lighter color. %16 protein, and 3500 IC of Vitamin A.
Farmer's Best: I have a few friends that use this it is supplied by Tractor Supply, or TSC. None have had any problems with this feed. (I am unsure of what it contains)
Hay Information: One requirement rabbits and other farm animals require is to have hay in their diet, this helps the animal digest their food. This is mandatory for Angora, to help with wool blockage. I give hay to my twice a week, and to the Angora's Daily.
- Many breeders say Timothy is better to give to your rabbits. I agree with this statement, rabbits actually eat the timothy hay, currently their is no Timothy hay in my region, so Orchard hay is given to my rabbits, most of them do not eat this hay, they play with it, makings forts, and some of my bucks use it to spray to claim as their own. I have notice for litters, and for building nests for the pregnant does; Orchard Grass Hay seems to be most used, and most liked, it is softer, warmer, and easier for the does to carry around in their mouth.
Alfalfa Hay: 17 - 20% Crude Protein
Timothy Hay: 7 - 11% Crude Protein
Orchard Grass Hay: 8 - 13% Crude Protein
Pasture Grass: 7.5 - 23% Crude Protein
Bedding and Equipment: If you have a pet rabbit and you have them on a solid bottom cage, do not use cedar or pine shavings, this is deadly for a rabbit and any rodent type animal. Wood shavings is great, used on guinea pig and rabbit cages. Now rabbits prefer being on wire bottom cages with resting boards. Guinea pigs and Flemish giants have to be on solid bottom cages. Flemish Giants are the largest breed of rabbit recognized by the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association), they have the extra weight, so being on a wire bottom damages their feet badly and almost immediately. Guinea pigs have very sensitive feet so being on a wire bottom cage causing bumble foot for these poor creatures. Tractor Supply carries some nice shavings, along with Walmart, and any feed store is surely able to have shavings for horses. You may also consider getting Wood Stove pellet, may not be as soft on the rabbits, feed but they sure do absorb better. Also Equine Pellet, called equine Fresh normally 6 - $8 for a 50 pound bag at Tractor supply, works great on overly stinky animals.
Resting Boards: These are necessary, rabbits on wire bottom cages need these to rest their feet from the wire cages. Without resting boards, sore hocks can occur. (See Medical Treatment page for more information) Resting boards can be Sheetrock, wooden boards, plastic boards bought from Kw Cages, or Barbi Browns Barns. Both work great! I have notice the plastic boards are easier to clean, and the wooden boards give entertain to the rabbits, and the Sheetrock they will chew on them, but it will not harm them in any way. It helps control the growth of their teeth. Since rabbit's teeth continue to grow none stop for their entire life. The plastic boards are approximately $3 - $5 dollars, and the rabbits are less likely to chew on them, but they will flip them over, and toss them around as entertainment.
Feeders: Something used for placing pellet food for the rabbit to eat.
J-Feeders: Most commonly used, they last longer easier to clean, and placing them a little higher helps the rabbit with posing on certain breeds such as; Netherland Dwarfs, Holland Lops, Lion Heads, Running breeds, and many more.
- Two types, Plastic and metal. I prefer metal, last longer than the plastic and rabbits tend to chew on the plastic J feeders, because it gives them something to do. Only problem with the metal feeders some of them will rub their heads on them and go bare.
Plastic Crocks: I use these only on traveling, easy to remove, rabbits and guinea pigs do chew on them, causing them to not hold the water or food. These can be screwed onto the side of the cage, or in traveling cages, so the rabbits cannot play with them.
Plastic Feeders: Plastic feeders are yummy! Rabbits chew on their plastic feeders, because its something to do, and when you have baby rabbits it could scrap their fur off when trying to jump into the feeder. Also if chewed too much the food falls out, and once in awhile rabbits can rub their fur off. That only happens with the nervous, bored, and teenage rabbits. More likely in bucks.
Ceramic Crocks: I use these for water on many of my larger breeds, and rabbits that drink a great amount of water. I use a water formal so using this is easier to clean, doesn't get clogged up like a water bottle. Many also use this to put feed for litters, since some of the kits (Babies) will hog the feed by sitting in the metal or plastic J Feeders. Rabbits cannot chew on them, and I have some that has lasted over 10 years, still working. If you live in colder climate they may crack. You may go through them every 1 -2 years as they become fragile.
Water Equipment: Something used to place water for the rabbits to drink from.
Water Bottles: I only use these if I have to, these can often clog, and if your unaware of your rabbit or have a lot of rabbits, your rabbit may be unable to get any water, and can die. Cleaning these are also difficult, bottle brushes only clean some of the time, and most time they can get dirty quickly. If you live in colder temperatures, these do tend to crack, and are not as durable. I have had rabbits chew holes in these, these also leak which can be another problematic issue.
Ceramic Crocks: I use these the most, they are easy to clean, more durable, last longer, and I don't have to worry about a rabbit chewing on them. Only problem is if you have a rabbit who jumps around a lot, you will have to fill it up more than once a day.
Plastic Crocks: Rabbits chew on them, they last only a few months to a year. I use these only when traveling, since they are easy to manage, and cost less.
Grooming Equipment:
Toe Nail Clippers/ Trimmers: Many different types of trimmers and clippers. The guillotine that is used for dogs will work but seem too expensive to buy for a rabbit, and sometimes is hard to use. Most prefer scissor type trimmers that are used for bird claws or for younger rabbits, but could also costly. My favorite that are cheap and easy to use is ordinary human toenail clippers, they are easy to use, and easier for kids. They also work on using for helping rabbits with bad teeth.
I cut my rabbit's toenail too short, it's bleeding!: Simple fix, nothing to worry about. You need to get a type of powder to clogged the blood flow, it stops the bleeding. I use Baking powder, Baking soda, flour, if you want to get fancy you can buy Kwik - stop, it is sold in most pet stores.
Rabbit Brushes: If you have long haired rabbits it is highly recommended that you get basic grooming supplies. A regular basic comb is one that you should have, it's uses to get the tougher knots out, without causing much pain to the animal. You can buy this at the dollar store, does not need to be anything fancy. Also a wire brush is very helpful you can also use this for getting top layer knots out that is not matted. You can use this on all fur types, I recommend having at least 2. I seem to always misplace one, also in case if someone does not put it up, you have an extra. Wire brushes range from $4 - 9 dollars, but they last a long time, I still have one from 22 years ago, and still works like a charm.
Rabbit Spray On Conditioner: I use this very frequently on Angoras, and the other breeds I raise, I have seen a dramatic improve in the condition of the fur, and the thickness of the fur that grows. The fur has a less chance on molting frequently, and the Angora fur seems to get less knots. The brand name I use and trust, and does not harm the rabbit is Show My Fur, can be bought from https://www.bunnyrabbit.com/brcom.html. It costs around 9 - $10.00 dollars.
How Can I remove Stains from my rabbit's fur?: Stains can be bothersome, actually if you catch it early enough you can get it removed, but if you wait too long and it is a urine, rabbit poop stain it will take until they molt it out. The cheap route to use if you do not have Vanodine (V-8), or a Clean N Groom spray, is to use some peroxide, baking soda solution. Get a rag and put a little peroxide and go toward the fur, and place a little baking soda onto the rabbits fur, and rub toward the fur. Simple and cheap way, if you do not have baking soda you can use corn starch, flour, or baking powder, none of which will harm the rabbits. The more expensive way, is to use Vanodine (V-8), now this product is not be imported anymore, but I always kept this on hand, best stuff to use, also great for disinfecting wounds. Another stuff multiple breeders use is Clean N Groom, another stain remover they say it works well, but not as well as Vanodine. Clean N Groom can also be bought from https://www.bunnyrabbit.com/brcom.html, for $9 - $10.00 dollars.
Can I force my rabbit into a molt?: Yes you can, it doesn't harm the rabbit, it does create lots of fur to go around, so if you have allergies beware. Giving rabbits a higher percentage of Protein causes a rabbit to go into a molt. Giving them a few pieces of dog food, pushes them into a molt, and can push them out of a molt if they are already in one. When I say pieces I am not saying a whole cup, or half a cup I am saying 3-4 pieces, if you do give them too much it can make them sick. I do not recommend giving them cat food, cat food has too much protein for them, that will make them sick, also is a little too sweet for rabbits to digest. Giving them a hotdog (Non-cooked), just a little of a hotdog, about 1/16 of a hotdog is enough, helps them to be pushed into a molt.
Rabbit Cages: Different size rabbits require different size cages.
My Cages for my breeds are: These are wire cages, do not use chicken wire, the chicken wire cuts up rabbit's feet exceedingly bad, and will leave scars.
Polish: 18 inches height, by 24 inches length, by 18 inches width.
Himalayans: 24 inches height, by 24 inches length, and 24 inches width.
Harlequins: 24 inches height, by 30 inches length, and 30 inches width.
Californians: 24 inches height, by 30 inches length, and 30 inches width.
English Angoras: 24 inches height, by 30 inches length, and 30 inches width.
Rhinelanders: These are running breeds, giving them a chance to stretch out is important. Mine are in 30 inches height, 30 inches length, by 30 inches width.
Dwarf Hotots: 18 inches height, by 24 inches length, by 18 inches width.
*When my rabbits are pregnant I move them to a bigger cage, with baby wire ( a smaller square wire), that is to ensure the babies cannot get out, and nothing can get in.*
- I also let my rabbits play in a play pen for extra exercise once a week for 30 - 45 minutes, this is also for socializing, I NEVER place two bucks together in a play pen. I also NEVER breed in the play pen. My play pens are 3 ft width, and 6 ft long, and 2 1/2 ft high. In the play pen is a crock of water, hay, fresh grass, twigs, branches for them to chew of course dirt to get dirty in.
Beddings that you can use, or cannot use: Rabbits are highly allergic to the following and can result in death over night, and within a few hours. Guinea Pigs are able to withstand Pine shavings, but not any other the following.
- Cedar: (Immediate reaction, sneezing, swollen ears, redness, rabbits will die if they eat this or left in the Cedar for took long.)
- Redwood: (I only will use this on the guinea pigs, many rabbits are allergic to redwood)
- Pine: (Some rabbits can be allergic to pine shavings, so if you use this watch your rabbit's reaction to the shavings for the first few days)
- Oak: (Found only in certain areas, but rabbits are prone to eat Oak, some rabbits are not used to this time of shavings, and many of my Harlequins are allergic to Oak!)
- Spruce: (I have some with allergic reactions to this, but last the longest so far on odor control, rabbits also like digging in the Spruce)
- Carefresh Bedding:I actually love this stuff, it is rather expensive, but far as controlling odor and absorbing it works a lot better than the other bedding. The rabbits do not like the comfort of this, I use this on my litters trays, the rabbits do eat this, and it will not harm them since it is just newspaper. Rabbits if on a solid bottom will scoot this out of their way, but rabbits will only use the restroom in one spot in their cage, so it doesn't matter as long as it's in the spot they go to the restroom in.
Ammonia Smell: This is toxic to you and to your rabbits. If you walk into your rabbit barn/ rabbit area and you smell urine present it is a sign you have ammonia poisoning. It is created by your rabbits urine, the higher percentage of protein the higher the intensity of the ammonia in your rabbit's urine. What Ammonia does to your rabbit is a life-long damage, when breathed in it damages the lungs, and upper respiratory system over night, or within a few hours. Ammonia is a gas, that settles to the floor, if you have your rabbits on concrete, the concrete absorbs the odor, and any rabbits near the floor will have problems with the higher dosage of ammonia.
- Keep in mind the more rabbits you have in a smaller unventilated building, the more the ammonia levels will increase. If there is an ammonia smell present, the level within your barn or area is already too high. You must understand that our smell is not as strong as of an animals smell, to have ammonia present to where we can smell is already 5 times stronger for the animals living in that area, or building. Must be treated immediately.
- If your area is outside you will most likely not have any to very little ammonia problems, because of the air being able to flow in and out within seconds. If in a building you have to have air flowing in, and outward. Also if your building has concrete, concrete absorbs the urine, creating ammonia smell with even more potency
- The higher the temperature and humidity: the higher the ammonia will be, and the harder it is to get rid of.
- Once your rabbit gets ammonia poisoning: Sorry but it's time to get new rabbits, the rabbit will never be the same, and will have problems breeding, and have a genetic weakness for the offspring not a good idea to breed once it has been effected.
How to prevent Ammonia poisoning: You can't stop a rabbit from urinating daily, and you can't change the feed to a lower protein feed, that may harm the rabbit as well. What do I do?
1st. Make sure you have excellent ventilation, air flowing through and out.
- Placing fans on the floor, helps circulates the air, but you also need to place fans where it is pulling the air out, and having fresh air from outside coming into the area/building. Many breeders use exhaust fans you can buy them at Lowes, Orchard Supply, Home Depo for less than 45 dollars, placing them in the windows. Also if you have a little more money you can buy a exhaust fan that you install in the side of the building, they cost about 60 - 90 dollars, They work extremely well, place them on areas where the wind most likely blows.
2nd. During the winter the colder air will circulate quicker, and will decrease the odor quicker.
- During the Summer, if you have fans in the barn, Swamp cooler, AC, some sort of cold air unit, that will help circulate the air, but having hotter temperatures will created the ammonia gas to settle close to the floor, placing fans on the floor is a must during the hot weather.
What is safe to use in my rabbit pans, and cleaning the floors in my barn?: I have been experimenting, and so mostly this is based off of other breeders, since I have only tried a few of them.
- White Vinegar: I have recently used this, many breeders spray it in their pans once every cleaning. I tried it, it doesn't smell the greatest but it did work for the 1-2 days, then the urine smell took over. The rabbits do not seem bothered by it, in fact some tried licking it. Its not a chemical and will not effect or harm the rabbits in any way.
- Can be found at any grocery story.
- Zeolite: I have not tried this, but since 4 - 8 breeders recommended it, and had positive views on this. I added it to the list. It is a non-toxic to rabbits, a non-chemical. They can digest this with no problems, helps absorb toxins in the GI Tract of animals. Breeders say it last for 2 -3 days in the pans. It comes in a spray form or powder form.
*Zeolites were formed from volcanic activity millions of years ago, and it should be stressed, that all zeolites have unique characteristics and abilities. The clinoptilolite (Clino) that comprises Sweet PDZ is one of the very best at ammonia absorption and odor neutralization.*
- Wood Stove Pellets/ Equine Fresh: This has gotten mix reviews. I have tried this, and I would not use it again, if you have larger breeds, or rabbits that urinate frequently. These look like pellets that you would feed your rabbits except they are a dark brown, and slightly bigger. They absorb well, but not well enough, once they are done absorbing it becomes heavy and the urine become very intense. They last 2 -3 days, sometimes not even a day.
- Can be found at a local feed store, tractor supply, Lowes, Home Depo, or Orchard Supply.
- PDZ Powder: Is the same as Zeolites. Different manufacturer.
- Baking Soda: I have tried this in the pans, and in the bedding of my cavies (guinea pigs). Seems to work well the first 1 -2 days, and then the urine saturates the baking soda causing it to become hard and sit in that area, and if not cleaned created irritation on the feet. It is a non-chemical, rabbits can lick it, eat it, has not effect on the rabbit, or other animals.
- Can be found at any grocery store.
- Lime Powder/ Lyme Powder: This is a non-toxic chemical. None the less just because it says non-toxic I would not consider using this, to where the animal will have contact with this. I have not tried this but many breeders have given it great reviews. Sprinkle a hand-full of this on the floors, and it absorbs well. Breeders say it can last between 4 -5 days on the floors and pans. NOT RECOMMENDED IN CAVY CAGES OR TO MAKE CONTACT WITH THE ANIMALS. My family has used this before, and it will not be good if you consider doing a compost soil, messes with the balance of the soil drying it out, taking the nutrients of the soil.
- Zapsit: Is a non-toxic chemical, not be using on close to close basis with animals, not directly used on animals. Other words, do not spray on the rabbit/animal, and do not have the rabbit or any animal sit on this solution. "is a blend of friendly bacteria which remain inactive in the bottle." stated from the makers. I have used this when I had lived in the city with a few rabbits, it worked well when spraying on the pans, it lasted 3 -4 days, and I have not used it on the floors. Many breeders say they spray it in their pans.
- Peat Moss: Can be rather expensive. Many breeders have used this for their smaller rabbitry. Ranges in prices depending on areas here it costs 16.98 for 5 ft of peat moss. Some say it last from 4 -5 days, and other say it lasts 7 - 10 days. It's easy to clean, and it absorbs well, smells earthy, and its completely organic material.
Breeding Rabbits: rabbits can become sexually active as young as 3 months of age, for the smaller breeds, the bigger the breed the longer it takes them to mature. For my larger breeds some can take up to a year to reach maturity for breeding, and even longer for some. I would say you can breed at any age as long as the doe has became into her first heat, if she hasn't she isn't releasing eggs to be fertilized yet, and will be unable to be bred. When breeding your does, wait until they have reached senior weight, because when you breed them it will stun their growth, on Harlequins this is highly important that they do grow larger. If you have a doe that is doing well on the show table, don't just jump in to breed her right away, let her finish her show season, until she has 3 legs, or until she is getting out of condition. When you start breeding a doe, her hips spread she gains weight, and may get a dewlap (a scruff of skin underneath the rabbits neck, looks like a roll). They most likely will get out of condition.
1. Always bring the doe to the buck's cage. Some does get territorial and will harm the buck. If you are inexperience never leave a doe in a buck's cage overnight. Watch them to ensure the safety of both the buck and the doe; normally let him mount and breed 3 times.
2. Check to see if your doe is in heat, her vulva will be bright red, and she will be willing to take (Lifting her rump). Rabbits are inducers. If she is not in heat, its very simple to put a rabbit in heat.
- You can blow directly on her vulva, and expose her for a few seconds, and wait 3 -4 hours to see if that works. Some does can be quite stubborn.
- You can try placing her in the bucks cage and letting him mount her and attempt to breed her a few times, take her out and wait 6 -8 hours and place her back into the bucks cage for an hour.
- You can also try placing her next to buck in a separate cage, for 2 - 3 days. To tease her.
- You may also try taking the lovely couple on a car ride for approximately 10 minutes, this helps stir things up and the movement of the car excites the rabbits.
- Also if you have a spare light you can use, if you have a light on for about 12 - 16 hours daily for about 5 - 7 days, this will cause her to think that it's spring time, and the time to breed.
- If she is a very stubborn doe their is fertility enhancers you can use;
+ Wheat Germ Oil: placing a teaspoon in her water for one week can induce her to lift, and take.
+ Apple Cider: Placing a teaspoon in her water for a week, with this stuff can also induce her to lift and take.
3. Never leave a doe in a buck's cage more than a 24 hour period, Rabbits have two uterus, and able to carry more than one litter, but both will be unable to live, because of the lack of nutrients they will receive in the womb. They will be premature most likely, and undeveloped. Most of the time the does in this situation will not survive due to the fact she is over stressed tired, and sometimes this can cause internal bleeding.
Best Time to Breed your Rabbits: Rabbits can be all year long. Keep in mind if it's overly hot, or overly cool, buck's fertility decreases, and may not be able to breed if it's an older buck. Also consider the location of where you have your rabbits, and the region in which you live. I live in Low desert, my rabbits are in a barn with fans, and a swamp cooler. Even with the electricity bill rising the temperature in the barn can sometimes spike to the high 80s. I do not breed my larger breeds during June - August, because they do not need the extra stress. However my smaller breeds the heat does not bother them as much as larger breeds. Also keep into consideration that if you have a breed that has a maximum ear length, the summer makes their ears grow longer. A rabbits AC unit on their body is their ears, that is how they regulate the temperature of their body, by growing their ears they are able to lower their body temperature. Keep that into consideration when breeding during the summer.
Nesting Boxes:They should be placed in the doe's cage with the nesting materials not in the box, they will take it out anyways, but let's not get them over stressed. Try not to place the box in until 34 days before. If too early the doe in question could become overwhelmed and have a miscarriages. They box should be made out of wood, or metal. Wood is better for colder climates, more durable, and is safer, some of the metal boxes can be slippery, and extremely cold.
The size of the box depends on the breed: Always make the nesting box 2-3 inches larger than the doe. Make sure the nesting box has a lip in the front, when the kits are nursing some will hang on to dear life, and will get out of the box, now rabbits unlike cats or dogs will not pick up their kits, they have lost that maternal instinct. The lip is to ensure they stay in the box, and not be attached when the mother is trying to hop out. The lip should be 4- 6 inches depending on which you prefer and the size of the rabbit. I prefer using 5 inches on all of my rabbits, and on my running breed 6 inches. I have not had any problems.
Nesting Materials that I used and Others:
Shredded Newspaper: It is a bit messy, and if you do not pick up the wet papers in the cage she might get her bottom of her feet dirty. They love using these since its easy to pick up and safe to chew on. I use the none shiney newspaper, the shiney newspaper they slip on, so do the kits.
Hay: I have notice most mothers dislike using the Alfalfa hay because it is like straw, hard to hold for a long period of time while rearranging, and most push it aside since it is uncomfortable. I use the Orchard grass hay, and my rabbits find it more comfortable, easier to place and hold in their mouths.
Shavings: Do not use Cedar shavings. Harmful to rabbits especially if ate. I use Oak/ Spruce shavings bought at the local feed store. I use this on my first time mothers who usually do not pull a lot of fur, and during the winter. I have notice though when the babies open their eyes and are quite active they sometimes will get moon eye or cloudiness in the eyes for the shavings scratching their eyes, I take out the shavings at day 14.
Fake Fur: Yes their is a such a thing called fake fur, it's actually can be found at a local feed store, or Hancock fabric. I use this on my mothers who failed to pull enough or any fur. I keep it handy especially during the winter. Summer it's rarely used.
Carefresh Bedding: I have to say it is rather expensive, but for my mothers who pee in the box, or tend to not want to use anything, and kick the babies out. This keeps the babies from getting urine on them, reducing odor, and helps the mothers relax as well. It's very comfortable, and I use this instead of shavings of rabbits that are very active in the box, no worries about them getting scratched or infections. Very clean, and dust free!
- Cooling: Most rabbit cannot handle the heat, especially if over 85 degrees. If you have a larger rabbit they have the most trouble with heat, because of their larger size. Also long haired rabbits, and older (3 1/2 +) rabbits have difficulties during the summer heat, and most likely will be affected if left directly in the sunlight, will die with one hour to a few hours.
- Shade: If you are setting up a rabbit barn, under trees is the best place, some rabbit breeders cover their barns with growing vines. Make sure the vines don't attract insects. Vegetables vines are great to use, stay away from honeysuckle vines, they are a major attraction to insects. Also remember that rabbits are susceptible to poisoning from insecticides.
- Fans: When placing fans make sure to not place a fan directly on the rabbit, this could cause a lot of medical problems, such as sniffles, colds, and upper respiratory infections, that could become deadly to your rabbit and other animals. Place the fans on the ground or on an upper area to help circulate the air, especially if you place the fans around openings in your barn, or housing area.
- Misters: As long as they are not directly on the rabbits, if they are, this could give immediate medical problems such as sniffles, colds, and upper respiratory infections, which could lead to death if not taken care and handled properly. These are used greatly for breeders who have their rabbits and other animals outside, when put in the shade, and they help greatly with reduces the surrounding temperatures. You can hang them high around the rabbit area, or get the ground ones used for dogs, and place a shade netting and have the mister soak it and it makes the area a lot cooler.
- Ice-bottles: These are great, I have been using them for over ten years, they are fun for the rabbits and keep them cool. Why waste the soda bottle you just finish or the Gatorade bottle you just drank. I would take the wrapper off, but rinse it out, fill it up with water and put in the freezer, easy way to keep your rabbit cool. My rabbits enjoy pushing them around, its a great entertainment! Just a warning if you have a Californian, Dwarf Hotot, Blanc De' Hotot, Himalayan or a white rabbit, be warned may get smut, but if you want to keep them cool, who cares about smut.
Winter: Rabbits can tolerate cooler weather a lot better than heat. Keep the rabbits out of the weather. If you get snow, some breeders use wooden boards around the rabbits cage, helps keep the warmth in, works great when you have kits (baby rabbits). If you have extreme cold weather, keep your rabbits off the ground, and consider doubling your insulation in your building/barn. I use hay to help insulate the cage, and rabbits love eating the stuff. Try to stay away from Oat Hay, can cause bloating.
Types of Feeds: This is something highly important, and most talked about among breeders. Pellet feed is a must have for developing rabbits. This is their main feed, this is where they get everything they need in order to be healthy, and maintain healthy. They require a minimum of 3500 IC of Vitamin, this is the primary vitamin rabbits require. Guinea pigs require 3500 IC of Vitamin C, that is what they require, this is needed on a daily basis. The more the merrier on their main vitamins. Protein levels is almost very important, a rabbits needs a minimum of 16% protein in their pellet feed, this helps to ensure they aren't skinny, underweight, in the wild many people are unaware that rabbits would actually eat leftover carcasses laying around. They are indeed Omnivores. I feed 16% on a daily basis, Angora breeds require a higher protein diet because of their long wool, needing to maintain that thickness. They are required to have 17 - 18% on a daily basis.
Feeds that I have looked at and have tried are: Always double check! They can change what they have in the nutrients monthly or yearly. Always periodically check!
Templeton: I am currently using this, and have seen a remarkable improvement to my stock, they gain weight faster, and fill out nicer as well. Has 16% protein, and 4000 IC of Vitamin A.
Kings Feed: I have had problems with this feed, have seen in moldy once in awhile, others have switched from this to Kings recently. Has %16 protein, and 3000 IC of Vitamin A.
Purina Rabbit Chow: I have not tried this, its not in my area. Many breeders told me it does wonders to their rabbits coats, and does well with the Netherland Dwarfs, Mini Rex, and Holland Lops. Does have %16 protein and 4000 IC of Vitamin A.
Country Acres: This is supplied by Tractor Supply, I have tried it, works the same as Templeton, didn't lose any rabbits, but my rabbits did not like to eat this as much as the Templeton, has a large pellet, in lighter color. %16 protein, and 3500 IC of Vitamin A.
Farmer's Best: I have a few friends that use this it is supplied by Tractor Supply, or TSC. None have had any problems with this feed. (I am unsure of what it contains)
Hay Information: One requirement rabbits and other farm animals require is to have hay in their diet, this helps the animal digest their food. This is mandatory for Angora, to help with wool blockage. I give hay to my twice a week, and to the Angora's Daily.
- Many breeders say Timothy is better to give to your rabbits. I agree with this statement, rabbits actually eat the timothy hay, currently their is no Timothy hay in my region, so Orchard hay is given to my rabbits, most of them do not eat this hay, they play with it, makings forts, and some of my bucks use it to spray to claim as their own. I have notice for litters, and for building nests for the pregnant does; Orchard Grass Hay seems to be most used, and most liked, it is softer, warmer, and easier for the does to carry around in their mouth.
Alfalfa Hay: 17 - 20% Crude Protein
Timothy Hay: 7 - 11% Crude Protein
Orchard Grass Hay: 8 - 13% Crude Protein
Pasture Grass: 7.5 - 23% Crude Protein
Bedding and Equipment: If you have a pet rabbit and you have them on a solid bottom cage, do not use cedar or pine shavings, this is deadly for a rabbit and any rodent type animal. Wood shavings is great, used on guinea pig and rabbit cages. Now rabbits prefer being on wire bottom cages with resting boards. Guinea pigs and Flemish giants have to be on solid bottom cages. Flemish Giants are the largest breed of rabbit recognized by the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association), they have the extra weight, so being on a wire bottom damages their feet badly and almost immediately. Guinea pigs have very sensitive feet so being on a wire bottom cage causing bumble foot for these poor creatures. Tractor Supply carries some nice shavings, along with Walmart, and any feed store is surely able to have shavings for horses. You may also consider getting Wood Stove pellet, may not be as soft on the rabbits, feed but they sure do absorb better. Also Equine Pellet, called equine Fresh normally 6 - $8 for a 50 pound bag at Tractor supply, works great on overly stinky animals.
Resting Boards: These are necessary, rabbits on wire bottom cages need these to rest their feet from the wire cages. Without resting boards, sore hocks can occur. (See Medical Treatment page for more information) Resting boards can be Sheetrock, wooden boards, plastic boards bought from Kw Cages, or Barbi Browns Barns. Both work great! I have notice the plastic boards are easier to clean, and the wooden boards give entertain to the rabbits, and the Sheetrock they will chew on them, but it will not harm them in any way. It helps control the growth of their teeth. Since rabbit's teeth continue to grow none stop for their entire life. The plastic boards are approximately $3 - $5 dollars, and the rabbits are less likely to chew on them, but they will flip them over, and toss them around as entertainment.
Feeders: Something used for placing pellet food for the rabbit to eat.
J-Feeders: Most commonly used, they last longer easier to clean, and placing them a little higher helps the rabbit with posing on certain breeds such as; Netherland Dwarfs, Holland Lops, Lion Heads, Running breeds, and many more.
- Two types, Plastic and metal. I prefer metal, last longer than the plastic and rabbits tend to chew on the plastic J feeders, because it gives them something to do. Only problem with the metal feeders some of them will rub their heads on them and go bare.
Plastic Crocks: I use these only on traveling, easy to remove, rabbits and guinea pigs do chew on them, causing them to not hold the water or food. These can be screwed onto the side of the cage, or in traveling cages, so the rabbits cannot play with them.
Plastic Feeders: Plastic feeders are yummy! Rabbits chew on their plastic feeders, because its something to do, and when you have baby rabbits it could scrap their fur off when trying to jump into the feeder. Also if chewed too much the food falls out, and once in awhile rabbits can rub their fur off. That only happens with the nervous, bored, and teenage rabbits. More likely in bucks.
Ceramic Crocks: I use these for water on many of my larger breeds, and rabbits that drink a great amount of water. I use a water formal so using this is easier to clean, doesn't get clogged up like a water bottle. Many also use this to put feed for litters, since some of the kits (Babies) will hog the feed by sitting in the metal or plastic J Feeders. Rabbits cannot chew on them, and I have some that has lasted over 10 years, still working. If you live in colder climate they may crack. You may go through them every 1 -2 years as they become fragile.
Water Equipment: Something used to place water for the rabbits to drink from.
Water Bottles: I only use these if I have to, these can often clog, and if your unaware of your rabbit or have a lot of rabbits, your rabbit may be unable to get any water, and can die. Cleaning these are also difficult, bottle brushes only clean some of the time, and most time they can get dirty quickly. If you live in colder temperatures, these do tend to crack, and are not as durable. I have had rabbits chew holes in these, these also leak which can be another problematic issue.
Ceramic Crocks: I use these the most, they are easy to clean, more durable, last longer, and I don't have to worry about a rabbit chewing on them. Only problem is if you have a rabbit who jumps around a lot, you will have to fill it up more than once a day.
Plastic Crocks: Rabbits chew on them, they last only a few months to a year. I use these only when traveling, since they are easy to manage, and cost less.
Grooming Equipment:
Toe Nail Clippers/ Trimmers: Many different types of trimmers and clippers. The guillotine that is used for dogs will work but seem too expensive to buy for a rabbit, and sometimes is hard to use. Most prefer scissor type trimmers that are used for bird claws or for younger rabbits, but could also costly. My favorite that are cheap and easy to use is ordinary human toenail clippers, they are easy to use, and easier for kids. They also work on using for helping rabbits with bad teeth.
I cut my rabbit's toenail too short, it's bleeding!: Simple fix, nothing to worry about. You need to get a type of powder to clogged the blood flow, it stops the bleeding. I use Baking powder, Baking soda, flour, if you want to get fancy you can buy Kwik - stop, it is sold in most pet stores.
Rabbit Brushes: If you have long haired rabbits it is highly recommended that you get basic grooming supplies. A regular basic comb is one that you should have, it's uses to get the tougher knots out, without causing much pain to the animal. You can buy this at the dollar store, does not need to be anything fancy. Also a wire brush is very helpful you can also use this for getting top layer knots out that is not matted. You can use this on all fur types, I recommend having at least 2. I seem to always misplace one, also in case if someone does not put it up, you have an extra. Wire brushes range from $4 - 9 dollars, but they last a long time, I still have one from 22 years ago, and still works like a charm.
Rabbit Spray On Conditioner: I use this very frequently on Angoras, and the other breeds I raise, I have seen a dramatic improve in the condition of the fur, and the thickness of the fur that grows. The fur has a less chance on molting frequently, and the Angora fur seems to get less knots. The brand name I use and trust, and does not harm the rabbit is Show My Fur, can be bought from https://www.bunnyrabbit.com/brcom.html. It costs around 9 - $10.00 dollars.
How Can I remove Stains from my rabbit's fur?: Stains can be bothersome, actually if you catch it early enough you can get it removed, but if you wait too long and it is a urine, rabbit poop stain it will take until they molt it out. The cheap route to use if you do not have Vanodine (V-8), or a Clean N Groom spray, is to use some peroxide, baking soda solution. Get a rag and put a little peroxide and go toward the fur, and place a little baking soda onto the rabbits fur, and rub toward the fur. Simple and cheap way, if you do not have baking soda you can use corn starch, flour, or baking powder, none of which will harm the rabbits. The more expensive way, is to use Vanodine (V-8), now this product is not be imported anymore, but I always kept this on hand, best stuff to use, also great for disinfecting wounds. Another stuff multiple breeders use is Clean N Groom, another stain remover they say it works well, but not as well as Vanodine. Clean N Groom can also be bought from https://www.bunnyrabbit.com/brcom.html, for $9 - $10.00 dollars.
Can I force my rabbit into a molt?: Yes you can, it doesn't harm the rabbit, it does create lots of fur to go around, so if you have allergies beware. Giving rabbits a higher percentage of Protein causes a rabbit to go into a molt. Giving them a few pieces of dog food, pushes them into a molt, and can push them out of a molt if they are already in one. When I say pieces I am not saying a whole cup, or half a cup I am saying 3-4 pieces, if you do give them too much it can make them sick. I do not recommend giving them cat food, cat food has too much protein for them, that will make them sick, also is a little too sweet for rabbits to digest. Giving them a hotdog (Non-cooked), just a little of a hotdog, about 1/16 of a hotdog is enough, helps them to be pushed into a molt.
Rabbit Cages: Different size rabbits require different size cages.
My Cages for my breeds are: These are wire cages, do not use chicken wire, the chicken wire cuts up rabbit's feet exceedingly bad, and will leave scars.
Polish: 18 inches height, by 24 inches length, by 18 inches width.
Himalayans: 24 inches height, by 24 inches length, and 24 inches width.
Harlequins: 24 inches height, by 30 inches length, and 30 inches width.
Californians: 24 inches height, by 30 inches length, and 30 inches width.
English Angoras: 24 inches height, by 30 inches length, and 30 inches width.
Rhinelanders: These are running breeds, giving them a chance to stretch out is important. Mine are in 30 inches height, 30 inches length, by 30 inches width.
Dwarf Hotots: 18 inches height, by 24 inches length, by 18 inches width.
*When my rabbits are pregnant I move them to a bigger cage, with baby wire ( a smaller square wire), that is to ensure the babies cannot get out, and nothing can get in.*
- I also let my rabbits play in a play pen for extra exercise once a week for 30 - 45 minutes, this is also for socializing, I NEVER place two bucks together in a play pen. I also NEVER breed in the play pen. My play pens are 3 ft width, and 6 ft long, and 2 1/2 ft high. In the play pen is a crock of water, hay, fresh grass, twigs, branches for them to chew of course dirt to get dirty in.
Beddings that you can use, or cannot use: Rabbits are highly allergic to the following and can result in death over night, and within a few hours. Guinea Pigs are able to withstand Pine shavings, but not any other the following.
- Cedar: (Immediate reaction, sneezing, swollen ears, redness, rabbits will die if they eat this or left in the Cedar for took long.)
- Redwood: (I only will use this on the guinea pigs, many rabbits are allergic to redwood)
- Pine: (Some rabbits can be allergic to pine shavings, so if you use this watch your rabbit's reaction to the shavings for the first few days)
- Oak: (Found only in certain areas, but rabbits are prone to eat Oak, some rabbits are not used to this time of shavings, and many of my Harlequins are allergic to Oak!)
- Spruce: (I have some with allergic reactions to this, but last the longest so far on odor control, rabbits also like digging in the Spruce)
- Carefresh Bedding:I actually love this stuff, it is rather expensive, but far as controlling odor and absorbing it works a lot better than the other bedding. The rabbits do not like the comfort of this, I use this on my litters trays, the rabbits do eat this, and it will not harm them since it is just newspaper. Rabbits if on a solid bottom will scoot this out of their way, but rabbits will only use the restroom in one spot in their cage, so it doesn't matter as long as it's in the spot they go to the restroom in.
Ammonia Smell: This is toxic to you and to your rabbits. If you walk into your rabbit barn/ rabbit area and you smell urine present it is a sign you have ammonia poisoning. It is created by your rabbits urine, the higher percentage of protein the higher the intensity of the ammonia in your rabbit's urine. What Ammonia does to your rabbit is a life-long damage, when breathed in it damages the lungs, and upper respiratory system over night, or within a few hours. Ammonia is a gas, that settles to the floor, if you have your rabbits on concrete, the concrete absorbs the odor, and any rabbits near the floor will have problems with the higher dosage of ammonia.
- Keep in mind the more rabbits you have in a smaller unventilated building, the more the ammonia levels will increase. If there is an ammonia smell present, the level within your barn or area is already too high. You must understand that our smell is not as strong as of an animals smell, to have ammonia present to where we can smell is already 5 times stronger for the animals living in that area, or building. Must be treated immediately.
- If your area is outside you will most likely not have any to very little ammonia problems, because of the air being able to flow in and out within seconds. If in a building you have to have air flowing in, and outward. Also if your building has concrete, concrete absorbs the urine, creating ammonia smell with even more potency
- The higher the temperature and humidity: the higher the ammonia will be, and the harder it is to get rid of.
- Once your rabbit gets ammonia poisoning: Sorry but it's time to get new rabbits, the rabbit will never be the same, and will have problems breeding, and have a genetic weakness for the offspring not a good idea to breed once it has been effected.
How to prevent Ammonia poisoning: You can't stop a rabbit from urinating daily, and you can't change the feed to a lower protein feed, that may harm the rabbit as well. What do I do?
1st. Make sure you have excellent ventilation, air flowing through and out.
- Placing fans on the floor, helps circulates the air, but you also need to place fans where it is pulling the air out, and having fresh air from outside coming into the area/building. Many breeders use exhaust fans you can buy them at Lowes, Orchard Supply, Home Depo for less than 45 dollars, placing them in the windows. Also if you have a little more money you can buy a exhaust fan that you install in the side of the building, they cost about 60 - 90 dollars, They work extremely well, place them on areas where the wind most likely blows.
2nd. During the winter the colder air will circulate quicker, and will decrease the odor quicker.
- During the Summer, if you have fans in the barn, Swamp cooler, AC, some sort of cold air unit, that will help circulate the air, but having hotter temperatures will created the ammonia gas to settle close to the floor, placing fans on the floor is a must during the hot weather.
What is safe to use in my rabbit pans, and cleaning the floors in my barn?: I have been experimenting, and so mostly this is based off of other breeders, since I have only tried a few of them.
- White Vinegar: I have recently used this, many breeders spray it in their pans once every cleaning. I tried it, it doesn't smell the greatest but it did work for the 1-2 days, then the urine smell took over. The rabbits do not seem bothered by it, in fact some tried licking it. Its not a chemical and will not effect or harm the rabbits in any way.
- Can be found at any grocery story.
- Zeolite: I have not tried this, but since 4 - 8 breeders recommended it, and had positive views on this. I added it to the list. It is a non-toxic to rabbits, a non-chemical. They can digest this with no problems, helps absorb toxins in the GI Tract of animals. Breeders say it last for 2 -3 days in the pans. It comes in a spray form or powder form.
*Zeolites were formed from volcanic activity millions of years ago, and it should be stressed, that all zeolites have unique characteristics and abilities. The clinoptilolite (Clino) that comprises Sweet PDZ is one of the very best at ammonia absorption and odor neutralization.*
- Wood Stove Pellets/ Equine Fresh: This has gotten mix reviews. I have tried this, and I would not use it again, if you have larger breeds, or rabbits that urinate frequently. These look like pellets that you would feed your rabbits except they are a dark brown, and slightly bigger. They absorb well, but not well enough, once they are done absorbing it becomes heavy and the urine become very intense. They last 2 -3 days, sometimes not even a day.
- Can be found at a local feed store, tractor supply, Lowes, Home Depo, or Orchard Supply.
- PDZ Powder: Is the same as Zeolites. Different manufacturer.
- Baking Soda: I have tried this in the pans, and in the bedding of my cavies (guinea pigs). Seems to work well the first 1 -2 days, and then the urine saturates the baking soda causing it to become hard and sit in that area, and if not cleaned created irritation on the feet. It is a non-chemical, rabbits can lick it, eat it, has not effect on the rabbit, or other animals.
- Can be found at any grocery store.
- Lime Powder/ Lyme Powder: This is a non-toxic chemical. None the less just because it says non-toxic I would not consider using this, to where the animal will have contact with this. I have not tried this but many breeders have given it great reviews. Sprinkle a hand-full of this on the floors, and it absorbs well. Breeders say it can last between 4 -5 days on the floors and pans. NOT RECOMMENDED IN CAVY CAGES OR TO MAKE CONTACT WITH THE ANIMALS. My family has used this before, and it will not be good if you consider doing a compost soil, messes with the balance of the soil drying it out, taking the nutrients of the soil.
- Zapsit: Is a non-toxic chemical, not be using on close to close basis with animals, not directly used on animals. Other words, do not spray on the rabbit/animal, and do not have the rabbit or any animal sit on this solution. "is a blend of friendly bacteria which remain inactive in the bottle." stated from the makers. I have used this when I had lived in the city with a few rabbits, it worked well when spraying on the pans, it lasted 3 -4 days, and I have not used it on the floors. Many breeders say they spray it in their pans.
- Peat Moss: Can be rather expensive. Many breeders have used this for their smaller rabbitry. Ranges in prices depending on areas here it costs 16.98 for 5 ft of peat moss. Some say it last from 4 -5 days, and other say it lasts 7 - 10 days. It's easy to clean, and it absorbs well, smells earthy, and its completely organic material.
Breeding Rabbits: rabbits can become sexually active as young as 3 months of age, for the smaller breeds, the bigger the breed the longer it takes them to mature. For my larger breeds some can take up to a year to reach maturity for breeding, and even longer for some. I would say you can breed at any age as long as the doe has became into her first heat, if she hasn't she isn't releasing eggs to be fertilized yet, and will be unable to be bred. When breeding your does, wait until they have reached senior weight, because when you breed them it will stun their growth, on Harlequins this is highly important that they do grow larger. If you have a doe that is doing well on the show table, don't just jump in to breed her right away, let her finish her show season, until she has 3 legs, or until she is getting out of condition. When you start breeding a doe, her hips spread she gains weight, and may get a dewlap (a scruff of skin underneath the rabbits neck, looks like a roll). They most likely will get out of condition.
1. Always bring the doe to the buck's cage. Some does get territorial and will harm the buck. If you are inexperience never leave a doe in a buck's cage overnight. Watch them to ensure the safety of both the buck and the doe; normally let him mount and breed 3 times.
2. Check to see if your doe is in heat, her vulva will be bright red, and she will be willing to take (Lifting her rump). Rabbits are inducers. If she is not in heat, its very simple to put a rabbit in heat.
- You can blow directly on her vulva, and expose her for a few seconds, and wait 3 -4 hours to see if that works. Some does can be quite stubborn.
- You can try placing her in the bucks cage and letting him mount her and attempt to breed her a few times, take her out and wait 6 -8 hours and place her back into the bucks cage for an hour.
- You can also try placing her next to buck in a separate cage, for 2 - 3 days. To tease her.
- You may also try taking the lovely couple on a car ride for approximately 10 minutes, this helps stir things up and the movement of the car excites the rabbits.
- Also if you have a spare light you can use, if you have a light on for about 12 - 16 hours daily for about 5 - 7 days, this will cause her to think that it's spring time, and the time to breed.
- If she is a very stubborn doe their is fertility enhancers you can use;
+ Wheat Germ Oil: placing a teaspoon in her water for one week can induce her to lift, and take.
+ Apple Cider: Placing a teaspoon in her water for a week, with this stuff can also induce her to lift and take.
3. Never leave a doe in a buck's cage more than a 24 hour period, Rabbits have two uterus, and able to carry more than one litter, but both will be unable to live, because of the lack of nutrients they will receive in the womb. They will be premature most likely, and undeveloped. Most of the time the does in this situation will not survive due to the fact she is over stressed tired, and sometimes this can cause internal bleeding.
Best Time to Breed your Rabbits: Rabbits can be all year long. Keep in mind if it's overly hot, or overly cool, buck's fertility decreases, and may not be able to breed if it's an older buck. Also consider the location of where you have your rabbits, and the region in which you live. I live in Low desert, my rabbits are in a barn with fans, and a swamp cooler. Even with the electricity bill rising the temperature in the barn can sometimes spike to the high 80s. I do not breed my larger breeds during June - August, because they do not need the extra stress. However my smaller breeds the heat does not bother them as much as larger breeds. Also keep into consideration that if you have a breed that has a maximum ear length, the summer makes their ears grow longer. A rabbits AC unit on their body is their ears, that is how they regulate the temperature of their body, by growing their ears they are able to lower their body temperature. Keep that into consideration when breeding during the summer.
Nesting Boxes:They should be placed in the doe's cage with the nesting materials not in the box, they will take it out anyways, but let's not get them over stressed. Try not to place the box in until 34 days before. If too early the doe in question could become overwhelmed and have a miscarriages. They box should be made out of wood, or metal. Wood is better for colder climates, more durable, and is safer, some of the metal boxes can be slippery, and extremely cold.
The size of the box depends on the breed: Always make the nesting box 2-3 inches larger than the doe. Make sure the nesting box has a lip in the front, when the kits are nursing some will hang on to dear life, and will get out of the box, now rabbits unlike cats or dogs will not pick up their kits, they have lost that maternal instinct. The lip is to ensure they stay in the box, and not be attached when the mother is trying to hop out. The lip should be 4- 6 inches depending on which you prefer and the size of the rabbit. I prefer using 5 inches on all of my rabbits, and on my running breed 6 inches. I have not had any problems.
Nesting Materials that I used and Others:
Shredded Newspaper: It is a bit messy, and if you do not pick up the wet papers in the cage she might get her bottom of her feet dirty. They love using these since its easy to pick up and safe to chew on. I use the none shiney newspaper, the shiney newspaper they slip on, so do the kits.
Hay: I have notice most mothers dislike using the Alfalfa hay because it is like straw, hard to hold for a long period of time while rearranging, and most push it aside since it is uncomfortable. I use the Orchard grass hay, and my rabbits find it more comfortable, easier to place and hold in their mouths.
Shavings: Do not use Cedar shavings. Harmful to rabbits especially if ate. I use Oak/ Spruce shavings bought at the local feed store. I use this on my first time mothers who usually do not pull a lot of fur, and during the winter. I have notice though when the babies open their eyes and are quite active they sometimes will get moon eye or cloudiness in the eyes for the shavings scratching their eyes, I take out the shavings at day 14.
Fake Fur: Yes their is a such a thing called fake fur, it's actually can be found at a local feed store, or Hancock fabric. I use this on my mothers who failed to pull enough or any fur. I keep it handy especially during the winter. Summer it's rarely used.
Carefresh Bedding: I have to say it is rather expensive, but for my mothers who pee in the box, or tend to not want to use anything, and kick the babies out. This keeps the babies from getting urine on them, reducing odor, and helps the mothers relax as well. It's very comfortable, and I use this instead of shavings of rabbits that are very active in the box, no worries about them getting scratched or infections. Very clean, and dust free!
What if my doe is passed her due date?:
1. Is it her first litter: If so go ahead and give her a few more days 2-3 more days than a doe that has already had 2 + litters. It takes them longer to go into labor.
2. Smaller litter: If she is carrying a smaller litter, she will go passed her due date a little by 3 days or so. I would not be concerned if a doe goes to day 35.
3. Also keep in mind not all does with have their kits on day 30, or on a specific day, they all have their own approximate due dates. Just like humans it ranges on size of the litter, and the doe itself.
4. My doe has been panting for days now: This is now a time to be concerned. This is where I would try to induce labor, if she is passed her due date, and is panting ferociously.
Simple Tactics to Induce Labor:
1. Run a tub of warm water approximately 1 - 1/2 inches, have the doe run around in the tub until the water become cold. At least a minimum of 10 - 15 minutes. This helps relax the muscles of the uterus hopefully helping her push the kits out.
2. Giving the doe a massage of the stomach to the uterus is another way to relax her muscles, you can do this for 10 - 15 minutes also.
3. Herbal Remedies:
- Raspberry leaves/ stems: this has a natural inducer, that helps move things smoothly and have the contractions come more frequently, also helps relax the muscles. If the doe is given this prior to labor it helps in many other ways, such as helping bone development within the kits.
- Parsley (Italian): another natural inducer; also helps the contractions come more smoothly and frequently, helps relax the muscles. This also helps the doe with an easy pain reliever.
-Lavender: Has a natural relaxing smell, that relaxes the whole body, and puts the body at ease. It helps eliminate any stress/anxiety the doe has, relaxing the muscles of the uterus. If given the proper amount of two stems, can help induce contractions.
- Chamomile leaves/Tea: This has a relaxing stimulate, that soothes the Uterus, and relaxes the kits. This does cause miscarriages if you give it to the doe too early, because it causes contractions within the uterus.
- Other teas that can help the doe relax is: Green tea, and Mango tea. However do NOT give a doe mint tea that will cause her hormones to not produce milk, it will dry up her milk within 2 -3 days.
4. Medicine that can be used:
- Oxytocin or Pitocin: It is used to induce labor. It's only available in prescription from your local vet. This I would use as a last resort, because the side effects, can result in still births, paralyzed mother, abscess, and allergic reaction. This is the same medicine just a different brand they use to induce human births. 1/10cc per 5 pounds or as many will argue with my measurements you can type that into a calculator device to put into a different measurement, for ml it equals 0.01 per 5 pounds.
1. Is it her first litter: If so go ahead and give her a few more days 2-3 more days than a doe that has already had 2 + litters. It takes them longer to go into labor.
2. Smaller litter: If she is carrying a smaller litter, she will go passed her due date a little by 3 days or so. I would not be concerned if a doe goes to day 35.
3. Also keep in mind not all does with have their kits on day 30, or on a specific day, they all have their own approximate due dates. Just like humans it ranges on size of the litter, and the doe itself.
4. My doe has been panting for days now: This is now a time to be concerned. This is where I would try to induce labor, if she is passed her due date, and is panting ferociously.
Simple Tactics to Induce Labor:
1. Run a tub of warm water approximately 1 - 1/2 inches, have the doe run around in the tub until the water become cold. At least a minimum of 10 - 15 minutes. This helps relax the muscles of the uterus hopefully helping her push the kits out.
2. Giving the doe a massage of the stomach to the uterus is another way to relax her muscles, you can do this for 10 - 15 minutes also.
3. Herbal Remedies:
- Raspberry leaves/ stems: this has a natural inducer, that helps move things smoothly and have the contractions come more frequently, also helps relax the muscles. If the doe is given this prior to labor it helps in many other ways, such as helping bone development within the kits.
- Parsley (Italian): another natural inducer; also helps the contractions come more smoothly and frequently, helps relax the muscles. This also helps the doe with an easy pain reliever.
-Lavender: Has a natural relaxing smell, that relaxes the whole body, and puts the body at ease. It helps eliminate any stress/anxiety the doe has, relaxing the muscles of the uterus. If given the proper amount of two stems, can help induce contractions.
- Chamomile leaves/Tea: This has a relaxing stimulate, that soothes the Uterus, and relaxes the kits. This does cause miscarriages if you give it to the doe too early, because it causes contractions within the uterus.
- Other teas that can help the doe relax is: Green tea, and Mango tea. However do NOT give a doe mint tea that will cause her hormones to not produce milk, it will dry up her milk within 2 -3 days.
4. Medicine that can be used:
- Oxytocin or Pitocin: It is used to induce labor. It's only available in prescription from your local vet. This I would use as a last resort, because the side effects, can result in still births, paralyzed mother, abscess, and allergic reaction. This is the same medicine just a different brand they use to induce human births. 1/10cc per 5 pounds or as many will argue with my measurements you can type that into a calculator device to put into a different measurement, for ml it equals 0.01 per 5 pounds.